Originally my 2022 international trip was supposed to be Iceland in March to see the Northern Lights. But because Covid infections were spiking this past winter, I decided to postpone this trip and “settled” on Spain instead. While seeing the Northern Lights still remains numero uno on my bucket list, I’m happy it played out this way. Spain was amazing. I feel like Spain doesn’t get the credit it deserves amongst European destinations (I enjoyed it more than Paris). I truly believe that Spain’s way of life is correct and the US’s is wrong. Taking siestas during the day, eating tapas plates instead of big meals, $3 glasses of wine. This is living.
While doing research for this trip, I read, “Barcelona is a city to visit, while Madrid is a city to live.” I couldn’t agree more. Both are great cities. Barcelona is located on the coast and has plenty of beaches to choose from. Their weather is amazing, similar to California. 70’s during the day and 60’s at night. The city also has a high energy and big city feel. While Madrid doesn’t have the enviable weather that Barcelona possesses, Madrid has its own unique qualities. It feels more like one giant neighborhood. The entire city center is walkable. The architecture is beautiful. Barcelona was the primary destination and I decided to spend a couple of extra days in Madrid. So happy I decided to include this amazing city in my vacation.
Btw, shout out to my sister for helping put together this Travel Guide!!! Thanks Shelly!
Maps:
Itinerary:
Day 1 (Madrid):
As soon as we dropped off our bags (well actually as soon as the bus from the airport dropped us off) we walked along the Gran Via, which is a great way to get accustomed to Madrid. The avenue is Madrid’s entertainment center and cuts right through the city. Even when we left Madrid at 6am the street was still buzzing. Sights to take pictures of as you walk along the avenue include the Telefónica Building, built in 1928 and one of the first examples of a skyscraper and the Metropolis Building.
We then made a short walk off the Gran Via to explore Puerta del Sol, which is smack dab in the center of Madrid and is where the locals come to celebrate New Year’s Eve. Unfortunately it was under construction when we visited 🙁
Feeling slightly disappointed, we headed to see one of Madrid’s “musts”, Plaza Mayor. If you’ve seen pictures of Madrid, you’ve definitely seen Plaza Mayor before. It’s one of the city’s main plazas and is home to many cafes and bars (Don’t dine here – expensive tourist traps – Instead, walk a few feet past one of the Plaza entrances and try a fried calamari sandwich at La Campana) and stunning architecture. Walking through the Plaza you’ll discover the 400 year old statue of King Philip III, who was on the throne during the height of the Spanish empire. If you’re lucky like we were, you may witness a parade of horses galloping through the Plaza.
Taking full advantage of the Spanish culture, we stopped at our first of many tapas stops, Mercado de San Miguel. This marketplace is popping with atmosphere. Here you’ll find stalls serving up Cava and wine, cured meats and cheese, seafood, and ALL of the olives (pronounced Owl-leaves).
Just outside one of the Plaza Mayor’s nine entrances is the hidden La Campana. I swear this place constantly showed up during research for this trip. The only things you need to order are the fried calamari sandwich, a plate of olives, and a cerveza. We were only in Madrid for two full days and decided to spend two of our meals here.
Somehow we still had room for dessert so we stopped at Chocolatería San Ginés for Churros. No trip to Madrid is complete without churros and Spanish hot chocolate. The hot chocolate is so rich and thick you sometimes need a spoon to drink it! The Chocolatería San Ginés is open 24 hours a day. Just make sure not to sit at a table without getting your ticket first or you’ll be yelled at.
We wanted to burn off some calories so we decided to head back up the Gran Via in the opposite direction to explore El Retiro Park. If you need a break from the crowds and the bustle of the city, strolling through the park is one of the best things you can do. It’s so beautiful and peaceful. There are numerous trails, gardens, and outdoor cafés to explore. Located right by the exit to Retiro Park is Puerta De Alcalá, Madrid’s triumphal arch and the Spanish version of Paris’ Arc de Triomphe.
We had one of our rare non-tapas meals of the trip at James Joyce, which is located on the Gran Via. I have been craving fish & chips since I visited London and this Irish pub did not disappoint.
Day 2 (Madrid):
I regretted not buying tickets to tour Buckingham Palace so I definitely wasn’t going to pass up visiting the Royal Palace of Madrid. And it only cost $13!!. It’s the largest palace in Western Europe and the official residence of the Spanish Royal Family. The palace is stunning. You can take pictures as soon as you enter the palace up until the first room. Honestly, the grand marble staircase at the entrance is the prize pic of the tour. If you’re looking to get that perfect Instagram pic of the Palace head over to the Almudena Cathedral’s (sits adjacent to the palace) open courtyard in front of the Palace’s wrought iron gate.
After the tour we walked next store to the Sabatini Gardens. It’s free to roam around and it boasts a stunning view of the palace from the east. If you can time visiting the Temple of Debod at sunset, do it! I’ve seen pictures and it looks like the perfect place to catch the sunset in Madrid. There are pools of water in front of the temple that reflect the fading light from the sky. If you’re visiting in the summer and don’t want to wait until the sun sets at 9:30pm, then just head over to the Temple after the Sabatini Gardens. Debod is an ancient Egyptian temple that was actually originally located in Egypt but was gifted to Madrid by the Egyptian government because the construction of a huge dam threatened its existence in Egypt. Egypt gifted it as a sign of gratitude for Madrid helping preserve other significant historical sights in Egypt.
After Debod we took the metro to Taberna La Concha, located in the La Latina neighborhood. This is one of the few times we took the Metro but I was too hungry to walk. If you’re looking for a good Vermouth cocktail this is the place. And my sister and I ordered like 5 tapas plates and a couple drinks and it only cost 25 euros!
If you eat at Taberna La Concha or one of the many bars and restaurants in the area, you have to explore the La Latina neighborhood afterwards. It’s a maze of winding, narrow streets and is one of the most picturesque neighborhoods in Madrid. After a siesta at the hotel we headed to Viva Madrid for more tapas. It’s not hyperbole when I say that the melted cheesecake and gin & tonic were the best I’ve ever had. Before the trip I read that you can’t find a better gin and tonic in the world than in Spain and I have to agree.
Last meal of the day was another fried calamari sandwich at La Campana. I wasn’t lying when I said I ate there twice! When you book your hotel, look for one with a rooftop bar. One of my favorite parts of the trip was going to our rooftop bar at the end of the day to unwind and take in the skyline of Madrid and Barcelona. And of course getting hammered in the comfort of my own hotel.
Day 3 (Barcelona):
This was the busiest day of the trip as I wanted to get most of the “must sees” out of the way. Once we got into Barcelona the adrenaline was pumping. It was so hot in Madrid that feeling that 70 degree Cali weather was invigorating. Or maybe it was the caffeine from the best iced caramel latte of my life I bought at a random coffee shop called Barcelona Coffee Roasters lol (I swear almost everything I tried in Spain was the best of my life). After we checked into our hotel it was off to explore the Gothic Quarter. Similar to La Latina in Madrid, the Gothic Quarter is full of narrow, cobblestoned streets. I could’ve walked those streets for hours.
One of the most notable attractions in the Gothic Quarter and right down the street from the H10 Madison Hotel is the Barcelona Cathedral (Not to be confused with the Sagrada Familia). Couple of tips – The upper terraces offers an incredible view of Barcelona. Admission is free before noon. After 12pm it costs $10.
After the Cathedral we strolled along the most famous street in the city is La Rambla, a pedestrianized boulevard lined with restaurants, bars, and market stalls, runs from the Plaça de Catalunya in the center of the city to the Christopher Columbus Monument. La Rambla is a little touristy but so is Times Square and yet there’s a great energy about both. Since it’s catered towards tourists, I wouldn’t eat anywhere along the boulevard but it’s nice to feel the energy of the city. One stop I did make was at Mercado de la Boqueria. Supposedly it’s one of the best food markets in the world. There are so many options at times it’s overwhelming. Go through the entire market before you decide on what to eat. The Boqueria is where I had croquetas for the first time. If you feel uncomfortable by the crowds you can always take your food to go and find a little bar on the street to eat at like we did.
I don’t have a deep interest in art. But I wasn’t going to NOT take a tour of Casa Batllo (a.k.a. Casa dels ossos – House of Bones). It was designed by Antoni Gaudi and is considered his masterpiece. It’s skeletal exterior façade is so unique. We booked the $38 a piece tickets online for a certain time but we arrived an hour early and they let us in without any issues. ($38 each). Personally I didn’t think the tour was worth the price of admission. Maybe if you appreciate art more than I do, you will. Otherwise I would save your money and enjoy the free pictures of the exterior. Another unique building just a few blocks from Casa Batllo worth visiting is Casa Mila, popularly known as La Pedrera or “The Stone Quarry.”
Park Guell was the highlight of the day. It was my second favorite sight in Barcelona and my favorite pictures of the trip. The iconic park overlooks Barcelona and offers an amazing panoramic view of the city and the Balearic Sea. The park was designed by Gaudi but you can probably tell just from the multicolored mosaic salamander at the main entrance and the bench that lines the main terrace, in the form of a sea serpent. Tickets are only $11 each but it’s best to book tickets in advance in order to avoid long lines.
We ended Day 3 at Ziryab Fusion and Tapas Bar, which blends Spanish tapas with Middle Eastern flavors. I’ve never actually had Middle Eastern food before this trip but I was feeling adventurous. The paella with braised octopus was one of the best meals of the trip!
Day 4 (Barcelona):
There are so many destinations that are only a short train or bus ride away from Barcelona. Montserrat, Tossa de Mar, Premia de Mar, Girona, Sitges, and Tarragona. But when I read that Tarragona was home to Roman ruins, I made up my mind. Tarragona dates all the way back to 218 B.C. Overlooking the sea and located under the “Balcony of the Mediterranean” is the Amfiteatre de Tarragona, an amphitheater that was once host to gladiator battles. It’s free to enter and typically it’s cheap to be able to sit in the stands but there was an event when we were there. But there’s more to Tarragona than just the amphitheater. There’s the beach (Platja Del Miracle) and Catedral de Tarragona (construction began in the 1100s but was delayed until the 1300s because of the plague). You could make a day of just getting lost and exploring the narrow cobblestone streets. Literally right next to the cathedral is a great restaurant called Casa Balcells. Try the Prawn & Norway Lobster Broth Rice. Because I’m an American hipster we ended the day at Abirradero so I could get my craft beer fix.
Day 5 (Barcelona):
BEACH DAY!!!! But first we started with a tour of La Sagrada Familia (Sacred Family). It is the most famous attraction in Barcelona and possibly all of Spain. Designed by none other than Gaudi, it was started in 1882 and to this day is still unfinished. The light that shines through the multicolored stained glass gives off this awesome effect in your pictures. Tickets are $39 each, absolutely worth the money, and can be booked online in advance. You have two options when taking the tour, the Nativity Tower and the Passion Tower. I read that the Nativity Tower gave the best views of Barcelona so I selected the Nativity Tower. Or so I thought. But when I received the email confirmation it said Passion Tower. There was no issue with getting it changed. When I was in line to go up to the Nativity Tower and older gentleman had made the same mistake as me but didn’t realize it until he was already there. The attendant told him that they’re both towers are pretty much the same so an FYI if this happens to you.
I’m a sucker for a flea market, I guess since I live 5 mins away from the famous one in the French Quarter. But man, Els Encants Flea Market was a let down. Nothing but JUNK. I wouldn’t waste your time here. Not every thing you do while traveling is going to be a homerun, no matter how much research you do beforehand. But brunch at Can Dende made up for it. Order the homemade lemonade and fried green tomatoes as an appetizer.
There are so many beaches to choose from in Barcelona. Barceloneta Beach has been voted the best city beach in the world and is the most popular one but tends to be packed with tourists. If you walk further away from Barceloneta in either direction you’ll reach quieter, cleaner beaches such as Sant Sebastia to the south and Somorrostro to the north. We chose Playa de Bogatell since it was a straight shot from Can Dende. It wasn’t too crowded and we were able to get a front row spot along the water.
Day 6 (Barcelona):
Our last day of vacation was spent mostly getting a Covid test and traveling back to Madrid to fly home. As I am writing this article, the US just lifted their testing requirement for reentry into the States. But if you’re in Barcelona and think you have caught Covid, you can get tested at Schbelta Clinic Centro Medico. It’s a short Metro ride away from the Gothic Quarter and a rapid antigen test is 45 euros. You can also ask your hotel for recommendations on where to get tested as well.
We did manage to squeeze in a little fun on the last day and went to Montjuic Castle. This was my favorite sight on the entire trip. The castle sits on top of Montjuic Hill, overlooking the city and its port. It was built in the 17th century and has been used as a military outpost to spot invaders and protect the city and as a prison. During the Spanish Civil War from 1936 to 1939, both sides used the Castle to imprison and torture political prisoners. You can tour the Castle, its museum, and gardens for around $5 per person.
To get up to the Castle, take the Metro to Parc de Montjuic. From there you take the Montjuic cable car, a gondola lift that offers a bird’s eye view of the city as you make your way up to the Castle. Round trip cable car ride costs around $13. Once the cable car brings you back down to Parc de Montjuic, you can walk to the Poble Sec area of Barcelona. This neighborhood has a lot of excellent tapas restaurants and bars, including the one we stopped at for lunch, La Esquinita de Blai.
Where to Stay in Barcelona & Madrid:
For Madrid, I recommend staying along the Gran Via. We stayed at the NH Collection Madrid Gran Via. Excellent roof top bar and the staff were very accommodating. The hotel manager flagged down a cab for us so we wouldn’t miss our train ride to Barcelona. And it only cost around $225 per night.
For Barcelona, it’s recommended that first time visitors stay in the Gothic Quarter. We stayed at the H10 Madison, which was right down the street from the Barcelona Cathedral. This hotel also had a great rooftop bar and it cost around $270 per night. Walking to the beach I spotted a a hip hotel called the Paxton Hotel, which if you plan on hanging out the beach a lot is a good place to stay since it’s a couple blocks away.
Transportation in Barcelona & Madrid:
We flew Delta (booked my flight with the sign up bonus points I got from the Delta American Express credit card – $750 roundtrip) into Madrid instead of Barcelona because Madrid had more flight options. Would’ve preferred to fly back to the States from Barcelona but now’s not the best time for flying. You have to take what you can get so we did a roundtrip train ride from Madrid to Barcelona.
From the Madrid airport you can hop on the yellow airport express shuttle (Expres Aeropuerto) to the city center for only $5 (~30 min ride, contactless card is acceptable). To get back to the Madrid airport the hotel can order you a ride service for around $30. Madrid is one of the most walkable cities I’ve visited, similar to Boston. We only took the Metro a couple of times to give our feet a rest but the Metro is super easy to use. Madrid is also a scooter city. You can find one anywhere on the street to rent.
One lesson I learned on the trip is don’t assume the Metro has the same schedule on weekends as during the week. I had planned to take the 6am Metro to the train station but on Saturdays there is no 6am Metro ride at the particular station we were ar. So we had to high tail it back to the hotel and luckily the hotel manager flagged down a cab for us.
I booked my Madrid to Barcelona and Barcelona to Tarragona ($18 round trip) train tickets with Rail Europe. The train ride from Madrid to Barcelona is only a 2.5 hour train ride and $80 roundtrip. We took the Ouigo train from the Puerta De Atocha Train Station in Madrid to the Barcelona Sants Train Station. Trains are my preferred means of travel, especially in Europe. It allows you to see everything on the way to your destination, they’re cheap, and you don’t have to deal with the security and boarding hassle that you do with airports. One of my favorite moments of the trip was the train ride back to Madrid as I sipped my beer that I bought from the bar, read The Storyteller by Dave Grohl, and peered out the window at the Spanish country side.
Another less learned. My train ticket said 9:03am ride to Tarragona but Tarragona was not listed on the departures screen at the train station. Turns out that the train ride I booked was the Regional Express and Tarragona was just one of the many stops. Since Tarragona wasn’t the final destination, the train station departure screen didn’t show “Tarragona.” Keep this is mind when booking train rides for day trips from Barcelona.
The Metro was our preferred means of travel in Barcelona. It’s pretty easy to use and you can purchase 10 trip Metro tickets, similar to other metros around the world. It’s pretty easy to use. Maybe a little bit more challenging than Madrid, since there are a lot more stations and lines. Barcelona is also a bike city if you don’t feel like spending time underground.
Tips (Mainly food) for Visiting Barcelona & Madrid:
- Before you leave the States you have to complete Spain’s Health & Control Form to obtain the QR code to present at boarding & health controls when you land in Spain. You’re eligible to fill out the form 3 days before you depart for Spain.
- Food is central to life in Spain. The ritual of eating is very important to the Spanish.
- Difference between tapas and pintxos (pinchos): Tapas are small plates. Order lots of them to share. If tapas or a small dish like olives, nuts, or cheese comes with your drink at a bar, they’re complimentary! Some of my favorite tapas from the trip were padrón peppers (small, green peppers fried with salt and oil), croquetas (deep fried dumplings full of ham and cheese), and pescaito frito (little fried fishes). Pintxos are appetizers typically served on a piece of bread with a toothpick. Less food than a tapas plate and usually eaten in one or two bites. Usually they will be displayed at the bar and you can just point to the ones you want. When it’s time to pay the waiter or bartender will count up how many toothpicks are on your plate.
- Most Spaniards order beer by the caña (just under 7 ounces) because the small size allows it to be perfectly chilled while you eat a single tapa. When ordering, just say “una caña, por favor.”
- Vino tinto is Spanish for red wine and vino blanco is Spanish for white wine. Spaniards order wines by the region, not by the grape so do your research beforehand.
- In Spain, lunch typically starts around 1-2pm and dinner starts around 7:30-8pm. A lot of restaurants will shut down around 4pm and reopen for dinner. If you need to eat outside of these windows, look for a place that has an all-day kitchen (cocina abierta todo el día).
- Because dinner is served much later, heavy dishes are usually served at lunch (paella).
- Be prepared to wait for your food or drinks. Spain operates at a much slower pace than the US.
- Dining out is very affordable in Spain. $3-5 glasses of wine are common at most restaurants and bars. One of our meals we ordered 3 drinks and 5 tapas plates and the bill was $30!
- In Madrid, they speak Castillian Spanish; in Barcelona, they speak Catalan. Catalan is not a Spanish dialect. It’s a separate language from Spanish.
- I always felt safe in Madrid and Barcelona. There were always people on the streets. However you should never let your guard down. Pickpocketing is an issue in major cities such as Madrid and Barcelona. Gentleman, always keep your wallet in your front pocket. Ladies, always make sure you have a good handle on your purse. Especially when you’re sitting down at a bar or restaurant. Don’t put it on an empty chair.
- Tipping really isn’t expected in most situations and if you do tip, leaving 15-20% is unheard of. I used my credit card for the majority of the trip and leaving a tip was never an option. If you’re paying with cash, it’s recommended to leave a 10% tip at restaurants and round up when riding in a taxi.
- Order tickets online in advance. No sense in wasting time in line, especially if your time is limited.
- American Express is not accepted everywhere in Spain so bring a backup Visa or Mastercard.
- Do NOT exchange currency at the airport.
- Embrace siestas and take an hour nap after lunch to recharge the batteries.
- You no longer need to contact your bank and credit card companies to let them know you’re traveling internationally.
- Purchased a European SIM card as a backup option but used Verizon $10 / day for 0.5 GB international plan. Typically 0.5 GB is enough but there was one day I had to pay $10 extra for an additional 0.5 GB.
- You can download Google Maps offline before you depart for your trip but transit, bicycling, and walking directions are unavailable offline.
- Apply for Global Entry before you travel internationally. We almost missed our connecting flight from NYC to New Orleans because my sister doesn’t have it. Once you land in the US, you have to go through customs then go back through security on a connecting flight traveling internationally. I was through Customs in less than 5 mins but it took my sister a half hour. Then we got hung up in security because she doesn’t have TSA Precheck either. Global Entry & TSA Precheck are $100 for 5 years. WORTH IT.
- For other international travel tips, check my London & Paris travel guides.
- Learn a few keywords / phrases in Spanish:
- Taxi = taxi
- Train = tren
- Exit = Salida
- Enter = Ingresar
- Check = cheque
- Table for two = mesa para dos
- Bus = Autobus
- How much = Cuanto
- Bathroom = Bano
Bucket List for Visiting Barcelona & Madrid Again:
- Malasaña District in Madrid – Supposedly is one of the coolest neighborhoods in Madrid.
- Bodegas Rosell – Supposedly has the best ham croquettes (croquetas de jamon) in Madrid.
- Los Huevos de Lucio – The place to go to end the night and try the Madrid classic, huevos rotos (broken eggs). A plate of French fries topped with runny fried eggs and any meat of your choice.
- See the best collection of El Greco and Goya art in the world at Museo Del Prado in Madrid.
- Attend a rooftop night show at Casa Mila in Barcelona.
- Have a picnic at Parc de la Ciutadella, the site of the World Fair in 1888.
- Arc de Triomf – Built to be used as the main entryway to the World Fair of 1888. I’m so pissed I missed this.
- Quimet & Quimet – Tapas and over 500 wines to choose from in this cozy restaurant in the Poble Sec neighborhood in Barcelona.
- La Xampaneria (Can Paixano) – Word on the street is they have the best Cava in Barcelona.
- Sit at the counter and have dinner at Cal Pep. Someone I know said it was the most fun meal they have ever had.
- La Paradeta – Popular seafood restaurant in Barcelona where you order by the weight and is cooked in front of you.
- Alaire Terrace – A rooftop bar near Casa Batllo and offers a great view of Casa Mila.
- Els 4 Gats (The Four Cats) – A popular hangout in Barcelona for artists in the early 1900s. In facet, Picasso had his first exhibition here.
